"Ethnic" vs. "Modern" Cuisines /November 15, 2016 by An Huynh Let's not call anyone or anything "ethnic" anymore. I'm tired of it.Full article here: http://bit.ly/2gdcVQv Noodles from Ba Bar in Seattle. Geoffrey Smith This question of perceived value is becoming increasingly troublesome as more non-native (read: white) chefs take on ‘ethnic’ cuisines, and suddenly it’s okay to charge $14 for shu mai because hey, the chef is ELEVATING the cuisine.” As white chefs take on cuisines from other countries, the food migrates from “ethnic” to “modern” or “trendy.